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Mademoiselle Perle

Monday, 15 September 2014

Haute Couture vs Cheap High Street Fashion....

Following today's news about Jean-Paul Gaultier leaving his ready-to-wear brand for what it is (or  what it actually wasn't), to be able to fully concentrate on his Haute Couture collections and his  perfumes, the debate about whether Haute Couture is still relevant today, and the destructive  consequences on and of the fashion industry that expects designers to come up with at least four cheap  and affordable collections per year, starts anew.

 A decade ago I wrote an article about this: "Just how far will Haute Couture fall?"
                                                                                                         The global women's clothing industry is expected to exceed $621 billion in 2014, marking a 12%  increase in five years, making fashion the second biggest industry after the food industry world wide.  And therefore putting marketeers into place where there should not. 

Multiple collections a year, copying, repeating, having marketeers tell designers how to design and  what to design. The industry broke and will continue to break bright and creative minds like 
Alexander McQueen and John GallianoDesigners who like me, went to prestigious international art schools  hoping that they would live their dream in Paris one day, creating fairy tales and magic.  

Shouldn't we all be a little bit less greedy maybe? And dare to dream a little bit more? Wouldn't the  world look much lovelier if we chose quality over quantity. Beautiful complicated, dramatic, time  consuming, made by hand dresses over cheap polyester high street dresses that can be thrown into the  bin after one month?...

Because really, what would the world be without fairy tales and magic?


TATAFORNOW

P.S. To remind you of how wonderful Haute Couture actually is, see below the mesmerizing Couture shoot by Annie Leibovitz for the December 
2003 VOGUE issue, starring the lovely Natalia Vodianova as Alice in Wonderland. If pictures like this could have been taken in 1865, I am sure, this 
was how Charles Lutwidge Dodgson (Lewis Carroll) would have imagined the star of his novel to be dressed. 

In Haute Couture that is...















Friday, 23 August 2013

Are you ready for La Grande Rentrée?


The summer holidays are almost over...                                                           
#LaRentrée #ExcitingStartUp #DetailsSoon                                                                                                                   
TATAFORNOW

Tuesday, 28 May 2013

Stay Humble & Be Thankful #TuesdayTip


 There is nothing better than having the right people around you who help you make your dreams come
 true. With the input of an amazing team I'm currently putting together, but foremost with the  incredible assistance of my business partner and co-founder of my start-up, Miss B. I'm so excited  that we will be launching an amazing platform for the luxury industry in 2014. I can't talk  details,  but I can tell you, that it will be amazing. Really amazing.

 TATAFORNOW

Tuesday, 30 April 2013

Long Live the King!


Former Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands and                                                                                 
Little King William Alexander #Homeland                                                                                                                               
TATAFORNOW♥                                                                                

Saturday, 30 March 2013

Snugly Spring #SaturdayShoppingSpree


 
CELINE SS2013
Spring, in a deep male voice: "I am Winter" 
CELINE sandals, in a high pitched feminine voice: "I am a fur coat" 
Okay, so the first week of spring was not what we expected. It's still fur coat weather... 
So why not buying those fur lined Birkenstock style CELINE sandals? Like this year's spring they 
are completely suffering of identity crisis. Clearly spring is light and blossomy and feminine, 
and those sandals are much more macho male and sturdy than that high pitched voice they try to 
sell themselves self with... and they are so ugly, that they're pretty again (the full circle 
theory)... Makes sense?

TATAFORNOW


Thursday, 28 March 2013

Liza & Mikhail #ThrowBackThursday

 
Mikhail Baryshnikov and Liza Minnelli during the rehearsal of their tv special (1980)

TATAFORNOW

Thursday, 21 March 2013

Once Upon Another Time #ThrowBackThursday































                                                                                                               
    A picture from the story "Once Upon Another Time" I styled for 34 Magazine, 
    shot by Taka Mayumi back in 2006, when the magazine still existed (and for which 
    I was the fashion director).

  TATAFORNOW

Tuesday, 19 March 2013

Just Do It! #TuesdayTip






















     Lisa Fonssagrives in a Lucien Lelong dress on the Eiffeltower by Erwin Blumenfeld for VOGUE Paris, 1939

  I did. I moved to Paris...

  TATAFORNOW

Tuesday, 12 March 2013

About Elegance #TuesdayTip

  Elegance does not consist in putting on a new dress. 
   Coco Chanel

 Coco Chanel at her house
 "La Pausa" in the French Riviera 
 with her dog Gigot, 1930

  TATAFORNOW

Thursday, 7 March 2013

It's a wrap! #ThrowBackThursday

































 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FW2006 - "Widows of Culloden"

 It's a wrap! Four cities, five weeks jammed packed with fashion shows. But none of them really stood
 out... Where did the days of marvelous shows and collections go?...

 TATAFORNOW

Tuesday, 26 February 2013

Audrey Believed #TuesdayTip

 
Audrey Hepburn shot by Mark Shaw during the filming of Sabrina in L.A., 1953

“I believe in manicures. I believe in overdressing. I believe in primping at leisure and wearing
lipstick. I believe in pink. I believe happy girls are the prettiest girls. I believe that  tomorrow is another day, and... I believe in miracles.” Audrey Hepburn

TATAFORNOW

Monday, 25 February 2013

Keep Calm & Think Pink #MondayMorningMusings


"...and the Oscar goes to... Jennifer Lawrence!" Applause. Imagine you're Jennifer, you're happily and proudly walking to the stage to accept your Oscar, excited but foremost relieved. Relieved that this time, you're wearing a one piece gown to avoid your dress ripping up while on your way to accept your award - remember the SAG Awards? - and then... you fall. Flat on your face! I mean... Speaking of being clumsy, this could be me. Well, not that I'm *that* photogenic when I fall flat on my face - look at this picture, her perfect straight back and shoulders, the way the Dior dress pleats around her - No, I would probably be smashed all over the picture, with one leg in the air, something like that. You want me to give you some examples? Okay then. So, I go out for dinner with some fashion heavy weights, some designers and a stylist, one of the designers being Ricardo Tisci - just so you get the picture of the actual weight - I go to the powder room, come back, and bang! I walk straight into the terrace glass door. Next to our table. I banged my head so hard, I thought I was going to faint. "Are you okay?" "Oh, yes, don't pay attention to me, I'm fine, I'm good, no worries. " *Wispers* this-happens-to-me all the time. Or that time I was late for a Vuitton show, and my Fendi heel got stuck in the Louvre court yard, and it actually broke - try being elegant on one and a half heel, acting as if all is fine. I dare you - Or that time when I just came out of a Giambattista Valli show at Trocadero, and Bill Cunningham wanted to take a picture of me, when I was wearing a stunning cream colored cape. It was pouring rain so I was holding a big black umbrella. I was so excited that he wanted to shoot me - I mean, imagine me and my cape on the style pages of the New York Times! - But guess what happened..... A sudden wind flaw took my umbrella by surprise, so me and my umbrella ended up 5 meters out of Mr Cunningham's sight... Seriously, the list of me and my fabulous-fashion-moments-wrecked-by-clumsiness-or-crazy-accidents is endless... So, when I watched Jennifer falling just before she was about to fetch her Oscar last night, I just really felt for her... But then again, she went home with an Oscar... unlike me. I always go home with bruises, headaches, broken heels and umbrellas.

Anyway, congratulations Jennifer! One day you will manage to be flawless.

That's what I keep telling myself.

TATAFORNOW

Sunday, 24 February 2013

Marianne #SundayInspiration


Dundas mentioned Anita Pallenberg, Angie Bowie & Britt Ekland as style references 
for his latest collection for Pucci. He clearly forgot to mention Marianne Faithfull 
in her younger years though...

 
EMILIO PUCCI FW2013        Marianne Faithfull & Mick Jagger

 
Marianne Faithfull             EMILIO PUCCI FW2013

EMILIO PUCCI FW2013        Marianne Faithfull
 
 Marianne Faithfull        EMILIO PUCCI FW2013

 TATAFORNOW

Sunday, 17 February 2013

My World #SundayInspiration


 
Come join me on Instagram @ instagram.com/mlleperle
TATAFORNOW♥                                                                                                                                

Saturday, 16 February 2013

Run! #SaturdayShoppingSpree


                                                                                       
 BALENCIAGA SS2013




                                                                                                     
  Everyone seems to be trying to getting their hands on the last BALENCIAGA's by Nicolas Ghesquière.


  TATAFORNOW

Thursday, 14 February 2013

Lady in Red - Happy Valentine's Day #ThrowBackThursday

   
















 Oscar de la Renta FW2013     Diane Von Furstenberg FW2013  JASON WU FW2013


 i carry your heart with me

 i carry your heart with me(i carry it in
 my heart)i am never without it(anywhere
 i go you go, my dear;and whatever is done
 by only me is your doing,my darling)
                                                      
                                    i fear
 no fate(for you are my fate,my sweet)i want
 no world(for beautiful you are my world,my true)
 and it's you are whatever a moon has always meant
 and whatever a sun will always sing is you

 here is the deepest secret nobody knows
 (here is the root of the root and the bud of the bud
 and the sky of the sky of a tree called life;which grows
 higher than soul can hope or mind can hide)
 and this is the wonder that's keeping the stars apart

 i carry your heart with me(i carry it in my heart)

 e.e. cummings

 TATAFORNOW

Sunday, 10 February 2013

La Grace #SundayInspiration






















                                                                                        
And? Did you finish it yet? Did you like it?

TATAFORNOW

Saturday, 9 February 2013

Fluffy Flip Flops #SaturdayShoppingSpree


 
What about these fluffy embellished CELINE flip flops for upcoming spring summer. 
Would you wear these?

TATAFORNOW


Friday, 8 February 2013

Like an Angel... #FF


 Francesco Cominelli, picture by Tommy Ton for Jakandjil.com

TATAFORNOW

Thursday, 7 February 2013

Paying Dues #ThrowbackThursday


Last week I finally watched all the episodes of "Kell on Earth" - I know, late - And it so brought me back to Memory Lane circa 1997/1998, to my first baby steps in the international fashion industry as an intern, and assistant at L'OFFICIEL Paris. I remember all the assignments in French - most of the time I was lost in translation - the running around before, at and after shoots, the having to call press agencies, and not having a clue what I was asking for. In French. But also the first time I met Karl Lagerfeld and shaked his hand after a summer presentation - he was still fat and still hidden behind his hand fan... I have fond memories of that period. Clearly because I'm not an assistant anymore. Ha!




This was one of my first assistant jobs on location, how exciting! Uhm yes, *the idea* was exciting. But after arriving at Touquet, the first stressful moment started when I had to iron all the pieces, including the delicate ones (think layers of voile and big names). I was terrified that I would burn one, some, or all the pieces! The next day, after the clothes survived my craftsmanship, we were on our way to the beach with the Editions Jalou van, and of course the van couldn't go where the photographer wanted to shoot.... No worries. That's were an assistant comes in handy. And that assistant, was me alright. So, the moment the photographer found the "perfect spot" - 2 km away from the van, yes - I had to run back to the van to pick up the right dress for the right picture. Run back to the shoot. Through the dunes and the beach sand. Four kilometers that's right. With heavy, layered, crazy expensive dresses on my tiny arm. And as an assistant you're never fast enough. Ever. So I had. To. Run. Like literally run, to avoid screaming stylists, complaining models and the likes. Oh yes, those days as an assistant stylist...

TATAFORNOW

Wednesday, 6 February 2013

1960's Nostalgia #WonderfulWindowWednesday

                                                                                                                                                                                   
One of this week's windows at COLETTE, displaying Courreges sunglasses.
                                                                                                                                                      
TATAFORNOW


Tuesday, 5 February 2013

Remember girls! #TuesdayTip



"It's not money that makes you well dressed. It's understanding." CHRISTIAN DIOR
TATAFORNOW 



Monday, 4 February 2013

My Kiosk #MondayMorningMusings


                             



I'm really excited about this new year and find myself often in a 2013-bring-it-on-mood, but apart from the eternal questions, Where-did-January-go? and Is-it-February-already (I have that e-v-e-r-y year by the way) there was one thing that almost ruined my fabulous start of this new year; the news that my favorite press kiosk, just around the corner at the boulevard Saint Michel, where I religiously buy my fashion magazines since for-e-v-er, is going to close down. Close. Down. I mean, where do I go after that happens? What about my daily I run in the Luxembourg gardens - Chat with the newspaper Monsieur - Buy one, some or a pile of magazines - Walk to the next corner - To have my daily dose of caffeine - Flip through the goodies - Cross the street - And open my front door? 

For you who have been in Paris, you know how on nearly every corner of the street there are these cute little newspaper kiosks where you can buy French newspapers and magazines and chewing gum. Well, for international titles you have to be lucky to have one in the hood that sells them. And I was one of the lucky ones. My newspaper Monsieur sells Vogues from all around the world, no wait, he sells all the international Vogues + the whole rest of Condé Nast. But he also sells Dazed & Confused, Another Magazine, V, 10, hell, he even used to sell the magazine I used to be the fashion director for, 34 magazine, when it was still published. He sells my favorite home decoration magazine (Elle Decoration UK), but also iD, Love and Lula. I mean, seriously. Where do I go after he's gone? I just don't want to go to Colette or W.H Smith for my dose of fashion magic on paper. They're both like 20, 30 minutes away from my place, and well, you know how you talk to your hairdresser, or your manicurist about bad break ups, gossip, friends or family members in the hospital, or just about that fabulous new pair of shoes you just bought? Well, that's how I talk to my newspaper Monsieur, and I just don't see me doing that with the too-cool-for-school kids at Colette or the nerdies at W.H. Smith. I could also go to the one in rue des Archives in the Marais, which is probably closer to my place. But once in the Marais, I never get out (friends, fabulous vintage shops, and some of my favorite café's)... So, this is some kind of micro drama in my life, and it really makes me panic-ish.

                                                                                           
Why he's closing down? Well - and we're all guilty of that - sales decreased so badly, that he has no choice. Where he normally sold around 20 to 30 American Vogues a month, he now hardly sells 5. He used to sell around 80 Libération newspapers a day, and now that's just a lousy 15 to 20. Our lab tops, iPads and smart phones are to blame. It's practical, often for free, and with the whole green thing going on, much better for the environment, than all that printed paper. But isn't that moment of seeing a beautiful fashion shoot in a paper magazine while drinking a cup of coffee Just Magical? Do we really want to end up living in a world where everything is much faster and more practical but not magical?  I don't, one of the main reasons why I wanted to live in Paris and work in the high end fashion industry...

I love the magic.

P.S. Which of the above is your favorite cover of the spring 2013 issue of iD magazine?

TATAFORNOW♥  

Sunday, 3 February 2013

That's why we women love shoes so much... #SundayInspiration


 
"See a shoe & pick it up and all day long you'll have good luck" Andy Warhol                                                     
 TATAFORNOW                                                                                                         




Thursday, 31 January 2013

PASTEL #ThrowBackThursday



  

A creative direction & styling job I did two years ago for PASTEL in Istanbul.

TATAFORNOW♥