Sarah Mower for VOGUE: "A word, though, about the key to the show's look. Its army references link back to collections that Thimister, now 47, put out under his own name in the late nineties. He was then a well-rated emerging talent of the Belgian school, an haute couture-minded member of the deconstructionist cohort. If there's a slight feeling of throwback to the lost values of edgy fashion that crashed immediately after 9/11, it's because this latest chapter picks up where the designer (who's been living in Paris in the interim, doing various stints, including one as creative director of Charles Jourdan) left off. It's too big a task to bring all that back single-handedly, but Thimister's self-financed return is another side contribution to the growing feeling that it's time for something less dressy in fashion."